My carnival chasing kicked off in earnest this past year, starting with a trip to St. Barth. Anyone who knows me well can attest this is one of my favorite places on earth. Sure, St. Barth has developed a reputation as the St. Tropez of the Caribbean (complete with its own Nikki Beach in the sexy seaside village of St. Jean). In fact, most people readily think of it as playground for the rich and famous, particularly during the week between Christmas and New Year’s when the prices hike up exponentially, the island population swells by 50%, and everyone is vying to be on the list for Roman Abramovich’s decadent party aboard his yacht the Eclipse (now only the SECOND largest in the world).
But there is also a super bohemian culture of artists that mixes nicely with the local residents. The resulting blend is a paradoxically unpretentious, and really warm, friendly vibe that turns many people into repeat visitors. Quite honestly, it’s very easy to regard everyone you meet as a friend. Once you’ve experienced that feeling, it’s hard to forget.
Indeed, St. Barth’s siren song keeps luring a steady influx of repeat visitors, including myself. I’ve even been lucky enough to experience Carnival there on three separate occasions. This last time, I had not visited the island in about three years. After five years of traveling there several times a year, my touchdown on the island felt long overdue.
True to its French roots and Catholic religious tradition, carnival in St. Barth is celebrated during “Mardi Gras” or Fat Tuesday, like the other islands of the French West Indies. But St. Barth feels more like New Orleans during Mardi Gras than many of the other Carnival celebrations I’ve experienced. There are a few costume bands, but the island population is very small and the masqueraders are almost exclusively natives to the island. However, Carnival on St. Barth is mostly one huge costume party. There is a store on Rue de la Republique, where people can buy masks and other regalia to play dress up and participate in the festivities. The store is always open the morning of so people who are on the island and unaware that Carnival is taking place can snag something to wear at the last minute. But for those who have prepared in advance, it’s quite a display to see them in some very creative outfits. Most people take their costumes seriously in a light-hearted kind of way, but prancing through the streets of Gustavia in their colorful get-ups is something they look forward to.
Ironically, I left my mask at home although I was going for Carnival and ended up at the store. In the past I’ve dressed up as Michelle Obama (or really more like Barack Obama’s secret mistress because I looked nothing like Michelle) because my then boyfriend wore one of those Barack Obama masks he bought at Ricky’s Halloween shop here in NYC. I’ve even donned old headdresses from past Miami carnivals.
The St. Barth Carnival Experience in 2016
This time around, I was more focused on being an observer and taking pictures of other people who were enjoying the great big party through the streets. My new BF and I were there; it was his first time to both St. Barth and any carnival, so we bought masks to fit in. He got a kick out of seeing everyone else dressed up as much as I did. Some of the adults’ and children’s costumes were really outstanding in their creativity.
But for me, the best part of Carnival was reconnecting with old friends and making new ones. We met a nice couple from Pennsylvania (we ended up having dinner with them at Orega – one of the hot, new and highly recommended restaurants in Gustavia). My old friends kept us well supplied with a drink they call “Town Driver.” Beguilingly sweet, yet potent, you have so many you shouldn’t drive afterwards, therefore aptly named. It’s mostly a homemade concoction, but a few of the bartenders in Le Select (the most famous bar on the island and possibly the Caribbean) knew how to make it. Not sure if they’re still there.
Carnival starts in the afternoon and lasts until the late night hours, so be ready to party! It’s not as much of a grind as some of the other bigger Carnivals, but they have an Ash Wednesday ritual that’s rather unique. The grand finale is a giant bonfire on the beach—it’s not to be missed!
